In many South Georgia towns, historic storefronts are finding new life as restaurants. Jim Howard writes: This building was built as a bank. When the bank failed the property was purchased by my mother and stepfather. Hazel & Frank Griffin. And they started the cafe. The Suwannee store was on the other end of the block. In between was the picture show, Sat. Mon & Wed nites
Thanks to Julie Dopson-Swackhamer for the identification.
On a recent photography trip, I reached Buckhead a little before noon. I noticed this little restaurant, which appears to have once been a convenience store and decided to give it a try. I was skeptical since there was no one there when I walked in, but I was greeted by owner Daisy Benford and her super friendly staff and quickly filled my plate with some of the best food I had on the entire trip. I had fried chicken (perfection!), mixed beans, collard greens and fried cornbread. The price was very reasonable, too. As I was leaving, hordes of people began to come in, and before I finished shooting the sites of downtown Buckhead, the adjacent parking lot was slam full. As many of you know, I rarely give recommendations, but this is a place you shouldn’t miss if you ever find yourself in the area.
UPDATE: I believe Benny Paul’s is in Madison now. I’m not sure if this location is still open.
I rarely endorse businesses on any of my websites, but some places are so extraordinary they deserve a mention. One such place is the unlikely St. Simons landmark, Southern Soul Barbeque. You might have read about it in Garden & Gun, Southern Living, or The New York Times, or seen it on the Travel Channel, or the popular Food Network show, Diners, Drive-Ins & Dives. But none of those outlets can compare to a visit in the flesh. Owners Griffin Bufkin and Harrison Sapp transformed this 1940s gas station into a mecca for barbeque and soul food lovers and their fans are legion. There’s a great beer selection and a good variety of sauces for different tastes. (I prefer the mustard/vinegar-based Carolina style sauces, none of the sweet stuff for me).
Everyone probably has his own favorite dish. Mine is the first meal I ever ate here. The pulled pork with mac & cheese and collard greens was truly heaven on a plate. The white bread was a fitting accompaniment to this pinnacle of Southern cuisine.
You know it’s going to be good when the employees who work in the heat and smoke all day still have smiles on their faces.
Books like the Southern Foodways Alliance’s classic series, Cornbread Nation, take up shelf space with modern culinary classics ranging from The Whole Hog Cookbook and Southern Belly to Pickles, Pigs & Whiskey and Smoke and Pickles.
I made the first photograph about three years ago. The truck driver just stopped his truck in the road and waited for his meal. The food is that good.
The restaurant is still here, but is just known as the Hen House now. It does, however, still have great fried chicken and lots of other local favorites.
The structures seen above are still standing and largely unchanged in appearance, but it’s been many years since they served the purpose indicated here. The sign on the Cafe reads: Specializing in KC Steaks, Chops, Seafood, Frog Legs & Channel Catfish Dinners, while the back of the card notes the presence of a swimming pool, bowling, fishing, a mineral well 673 feet in depth and a Camellia & Azalea nursery.
Today, they’re used as a school for a nearby Christian community.
I’ve shot this several times in the past eight or so years.
Relatively inexpensive, Boston Butt is actually from the upper front shoulder of the pig. It’s used to make barbeque, Brunswick stew, and everything in between. A gentleman at this location* was smoking them and a steady procession of customers were just driving through and picking them up. I regret that I didn’t get a chance to speak to him as the traffic was heavy and I had to wait and wait just to get a shot incorporating the sign and the great old Ford pickup. But if you’re in the area and see this sign, you might want to stop by and pay him a visit. As busy as the place was, it must be good.
* just outside town heading toward Springfield on Georgia Highway 119
Brinson’s is a well-loved institution in Jenkins County. Located south of Millen on West Old Savannah Road, you’ll know it’s open if there’s a plume of smoke pouring from the pits behind the simple cinder block building and a parking lot full of pickup trucks. Unless you have a big appetite, order the small barbeque plate. I ordered the regular and it was enough food for two people. (They also have a large plate). The sauce is a bit tangier than you’ll find further south in Georgia, but it was very good. And the Brunswick stew was served over rice, not something often seen in restaurants. Three slices of Sunbeam bread, a generous helping of potato salad, and Brinson’s sweet tea complete this classic Southern meal. Brinson’s actual address, in case you need to put it in your GPS: 3924 West Old Savannah Road, Millen, Georgia 30442. Their telephone number is (478) 982-4570.
Though they can still be found in most communities, truck farmers who sell produce door-to-door are much less common than they once were. Most grow small plots of vegetables for family use and sell the extra. This farmer from Wayne County was selling mustard greens in Ludowici and began the day with a truckload. When I photographed him, he was nearly sold out. He noted that he doesn’t use chemicals and composts with manure.