Category Archives: Sapelo Island GA

James Hillery House, Circa 1938, Sapelo Island

This hall-and-parlor cottage is a wonderful surviving example of a once-common type in Hog Hummock, which has been nicely preserved by its present owners. James Hillery (1912-1991) was a prominent member of the community and a local deacon. James “Dee” Hillery (1935-2023) was a bishop. The identification is from the late Cornelia Bailey, but I’m not sure which James Hillery (perhaps both) lived in this house. I had the pleasure of visiting Mrs. Bailey on several of my Sapelo trips during the mid-2010s. She gave me a printed list of identified homes throughout Hog Hummock and Johnson Hummock and it has been a great help.

Hog Hammock Historic District, National Register of Historic Places

Mud River, Sapelo Island

This view of the Mud River, near the edge of Sapelo Sound, was made from inside the historic tabby barn at Chocolate.

Chocolate Plantation Manager’s House, 1935, Sapelo Island

This well-maintained Sears-Roebuck kit house was built around the time R. J. Reynolds, Jr., acquired the island. The area around the Chocolate Plantation ruins was still being farmed at the time.

It’s presently owned by the Department of Natural Resources.

Jessie Mae Banks House, Sapelo Island

The late Cornelia Bailey identified this gable front cottage as the residence of Jessie Mae Sams Banks (1918-1999). Mrs. Banks was a beloved member of the First African Baptist Church in Hog Hammock.

Hog Hammock Historic District, National Register of Historic Places

Dixon-Watts House, Sapelo Island

This gable front cottage is one of my favorite landmarks in Hog Hummock. It was located near my friend, Sonny DeSoto’s house.

Hog Hammock Historic District, National Register of Historic Places

Ronster Johnson House, Circa 1910, Sapelo Island

Abandoned wooden house with a rusted roof and teal trim, surrounded by overgrown vegetation and Spanish moss.

Penny Butler Rossiter writes: “This was the home of Ronster Johnson (1913-1994). It is in Johnson Hammock. He was the famous “storyteller” of Sapelo Island. Hopefully it will be restored one day. It is a “supporting structure” in Hog Hammock and is on The National Register.” It is my understanding that, though it’s a separate neighborhood, Johnson Hummock is included in the National Register historic district.

Hog Hammock Historic District, National Register of Historic Places

Sapelo Island Ferry Katie Underwood

A white boat named 'Katie Underwood' is docked at a pier with people visible on the upper deck, surrounded by calm water and a blue sky.

The Katie Underwood is the main ferry serving Sapelo Island. Its namesake, Katie Hall Underwood (1884-1977), was born on Sapelo and began working as a midwife in the 1920s. She assisted almost every birth on the island until retiring in 1968 and was among its most beloved citizens. She was the last in a long line of midwives who served Sapelo from slavery days onward. Mrs. Underwood lived in the north end at Raccoon Bluff but carried her black bag all over the island, to the scattered communities of Hog Hammock, Shell Hammock, and others.  A story is told of her delivering a baby on the north end one morning and walking seven miles to the south end to deliver another in the evening.  She is said to have never lost a child during delivery.

Interior view of a boat's control room, featuring a black swivel chair, steering wheel, various navigational instruments, and large windows overlooking the water.

The ferry was dedicated on 28 October 2006. It was built by Geo Shipyard in New Iberia, Louisiana.

Interior view of a ferry with empty metal benches and vertical support poles, bright ceiling lights, and large windows showing a glimpse of water outside.

The interior has seating for 102 passengers. A covered upper deck provides open-air seating for 48. 10 additional seats are located on the bow.

A magazine rack displaying various magazines and publications, including titles like 'Woman's Day' and 'Golf for Women,' attached to a wall in a light-colored interior.

The boat is 70’9 3/4″ in length and has a maximum speed of 26.6 knots. It’s powered by two Caterpillar C-18 engines rated 700 hp.

View of an outdoor staircase on a boat, with a life preserver hanging on the wall and a railing beside the walkway along the water.

The ferry ride is an important part of the Sapelo experience, illustrating its isolation and drawing the passenger into its mystical landscape.

A white and blue tour boat with passengers on deck navigating through the water, surrounded by greenery and a clear sky.

Cabretta Bridge & Blackbeard Creek, Sapelo Island

A wooden bridge extending over a calm river surrounded by marsh grass and trees under a blue sky with scattered clouds.

Like all roads on Sapelo, the road to Cabretta Beach is devoid of even a stop sign and it’s usually a rough ride.

A serene river curving through a marsh landscape with lush green grasses and a tree on the bank, under a partly cloudy blue sky.

One of the prettiest views on the island is Blackbeard Creek as seen from the wooden bridge, built by the Department of Natural Resources.

Lush green marsh grass along a calm waterway with a distant tree line under a blue sky.

Blackbeard Creek separates Cabretta Beach from Blackbeard Island, which is visible in the distance from the bridge.

A wooden bridge extends over a tranquil marshland, surrounded by lush green grasses and trees under a partly cloudy sky.

 The bridge is a bit rough and you will definitely want to stay on the tracks.

Cabretta Beach, Sapelo Island

A scenic view of sandy dunes with tall grasses under a blue sky.

At the north end of Sapelo Island is Cabretta Beach, sometimes referred to as Cabretta Island for its isolation at high tide. If you could imagine a place more isolated than Nanny Goat Beach, Cabretta might come to mind.

A silver Airstream trailer parked beside a wooden cabin in a wooded area, with two bicycles positioned on the ground nearby.

The only land-based point of access is the Cabretta Campground, which requires reservations. It’s a pristine natural area with a small comfort station and a canopy of Live Oaks.

A sandy pathway leading through grass-covered dunes under a clear blue sky.

A short walk through the dunes provides access to one of the most undisturbed beaches in Coastal Georgia.

Tall grasses swaying in the breeze against a blue sky at the beach.

Sea Oats are dominant here, as they are on all of Georgia’s Sea Islands.

A sandy beach landscape with tall grasses and gentle dunes under a clear blue sky with scattered clouds.

Like Nanny Goat Beach, Cabretta is a prime example of a barrier island environment that has never been developed.

A large piece of driftwood with sprawling roots and branches on a sandy beach, with a blue sky and water in the background.

Driftwood can be found here, as on other Georgia barrier islands.

A serene beach scene featuring white sand, green grasses, and a clear blue sky with scattered clouds, overlooking calm waters.

It remains a favored fishing and crabbing spot for the Gullah-Geechee people who call the island home.

Shell Ring Complex, Circa 2170 BC, Sapelo Island

Evidence of the earliest known people in Georgia can be found on Sapelo Island in the form of the Sapelo Shell Ring Complex. Shell rings are also known as middens. Three separate doughnut-shaped mounds rise up to 20 feet above the tide line. Formed from oyster, clam, mussel, and conch shells, the largest ring is nearly 255 feet in diameter.

As landmarks go, they’re almost imperceptible, blending harmoniously into the surrounding maritime forest. But these ancient trash piles are keys to understanding early habitation on the Sea Islands. They’ve been documented in South Carolina and Florida, as well. Carbon dating has placed their construction beginning around 2170 BC, but their massive size is the result of successive generations of Late Archaic people.

While it was initially believed that the rings were built all at once, like later Mississippian mounds, present research indicates that they were never intended to be monumental structures but simply grew as people discarded trash behind their circular villages. These early settlers likely understood that they afforded protection to their villages as they grew in size.

Due to the incursion of the maritime forest, it’s difficult to envision these mounds as separate monuments but it’s obvious that they created a new topography. Research is ongoing.