I’ve driven down this majestic canopy road many times, and having explored much of Tattnall County, would suggest that it is perhaps its most scenic route. I haven’t been out this way in a while and hope it wasn’t damaged when Hurricane Helene passed through the area.
The Fever Tree (Pinckneya pubens) has many names, often just known as Pinckneya, but is also called Fever Bark, Georgia Bark, Georgia Fever Tree, Florida Quinine, and Poinsettia Tree. It’s a small short-lived shrub-like tree that grows in wet areas on the edges of swamps and is easily recognized by its pink poinsettia-like blooms. I found this one on Ten Mile Road near Coleman’s Pond.
Numerous sources state that Pinckneya bark was used by indigenous people for the treatment of fevers, hence the name fever tree. Until the proliferation of modern medicines in the mid-20th century, it was widely collected for its bitter bark, which has quinine-like qualities, and was used as an immunization against malaria and various fevers. Over time, wild stocks were reduced by collecting but I believe it has recovered somewhat. It’s still a bit difficult to find unless you know where to look.
The lower Atlamaha River is home to numerous Wildlife Management Areas (WMAs), and Long County is no exception, with Townsend, Morgan Lake, and Griffin Ridge. I spent a couple of days exploring the snowy landscape at Griffin Ridge, which I think is one of the most amazing hidden gems in the area.
Griffin Ridge is characterized by Atlantic coastal plain floodplain forests, oak hammocks, and river dunes. Scrubby would be a good word to describe it, especially the uplands. Palmettos are the dominant shrub of the under story and are often so thick as to be impenetrable.
The early settlers of Southeast Georgia, and specifically the Wiregrass Region, forged a living out of this wild landscape, and Griffin Ridge has always been wild. Within its boundaries today are landmarks once known (and sometimes still known) as Fountain Hole, Back Swamp, Griffin Lake, and Patterson Swamp.
This place is beautiful year round, especially if you grew up in Southern woods and wetlands like I did, but the snow transformed it into something otherworldly. As of this writing, much of the snow in town has melted, but there are still quite a few patches glowing through the trees at Griffin Ridge.
Lichen is abundant here but most was hidden by the snow.
Tupelo (Nyssa sylvatica), also known as Black Gum and Sour Gum, and Bald Cypress (Taxodium distichum) can be found in natural ponds and wet spots throughout Griffin Ridge.
As flat as this part of the world is, some might be surprised by the hilly terrain. The flow of the mighty Altamaha cuts into the surrounding earth and creates changes in the elevation. The very name of this place is an acknowledgement of the topography.
I’ve always liked this oak, which sits downhill from the road near the entrance.
This small creek near the eastern entrance was almost completely frozen. I didn’t test it to find out.
The bridge in the western section of Griffin Ridge is perhaps the property’s most recognizable man-made landmark. It crosses a particularly large wetland area that is usually not very inviting to anyone not wearing waders.
This cypress pond was transformed by a thin sheet of ice, and many of the trees were surrounded by a collar of snow.
Just uphill from the pond was an apiary. It’s near an off-limits hunting cabin that is also a Griffin Ridge landmark.
Since most of my visits are photography related, I usually avoid this WMA during deer season, and archery is all that’s still open. Nonetheless, I was surprised to encounter someone on Saturday. He was a hunter but on this trip was just admiring the snow with his grandchildren.
Most of the boundaries of Griffin Ridge are clearly marked, and some roads are open only to foot traffic. It’s easy to wander off course if you aren’t paying attention.
No one had been down this road on foot or by vehicle, and it was particularly nice.
On my drive out of the western section, I stopped at the bridge and wandered around the low wetlands that are normally too muddy to navigate.
I’ve photographed this tree, another favorite, many times, but it has never looked better than it did in the snow. I usually just shoot it from the bridge.
I took over 600 photographs during my two “snow trips” last week, so this is but a small representation of what I saw. I hope some of you will have the opportunity to visit on your own.
These cypress knees may have been my favorites.
There aren’t as many canopy roads as there used to be, so they are always a welcome surprise. They are loved for their shade and their beauty. The most famous in Georgia, in Thomas County, are lined with old oaks. It’s rarer to find them in other parts of the state, but if you know where to look, you can encounter them elsewhere. There are some on the coast, of course. This one was unmarked and led to an historic cemetery, which is how I found it when I photographed it in 2009. I hope it still looks like this.
Savannah may be as well known for its moss-draped ancient oaks as for its superb architecture, and the Candler Oak may just be the biggest and oldest of them all. Located about midway on the Drayton Street side of Forsyth Park, this regal oak is 54-feet tall, boasts a circumference of 17-feet, and has a crown spread of over 110-feet.
It’s older than Georgia itself, and at approximately 300 years old, is believed to have been a sapling in the early 1700s. By the time its branches shaded Union prisoners held in stockade here during the Civil War, it was already a substantial tree. From 1819 until 1980, the tree was a well-known landmark on the grounds of the Savannah Poor House & Hospital and Candler Hospital [the tree’s namesake]. It’s now adjacent to SCAD’s Deloitte Foundry.
It was nearly lost to progress and development, but was saved by the Savannah Tree Foundation in 1982, when that group obtained a conservation easement of 6,804 feet that insured its protection well into the future. This is the first known easement for a single tree. It’s now held together by screws and cables, surrounded by a formidable fence, and monitored by 24-hour video surveillance. Hopefully, all these protections will allow it to live long into the future.
Savannah Historic District, National Historic Landmark
Griffin Ridge Wildlife Management Area (WMA), located between Jesup and Ludowici, includes vibrant examples of Atlantic coastal plain floodplain forests, oak hammocks, and river dunes. It encompasses areas historically known as Fountain Branch (Fountain Hole), Back Swamp, Griffin Lake, and Patterson Swamp. These are part of the larger Altamaha River floodplain.
The site is open to everyone, but you’ll need a lands pass or hunting/fishing license from the Department of Natural Resources (DNR) if you visit. If your interest is the natural environment, it’s best to avoid any WMA during hunting season, but that leaves a lot of time to wander the trails the rest of the year. A four-wheel drive vehicle is advisable and bug spray is a necessity.
A nature trail is located here and one of the highlights is the lupine, which usually blooms in April. DNR does a good job of keeping the sandy roads and trails cleared, and signs identifying various plants and wildlife can be found throughout the property.
Palmetto thickets are dominant in much of this xeric environment.
Primitive campsites with minimal amenities can be secured through the DNR if you want to spend the night.
A wooden bridge built by the DNR is a notable feature in the western section of the WMA, which can be accessed near the Tin Man on US 341. This area is closer to the Altamaha and generally lower and swampier than the eastern section.
Native plants are also common in this area of the WMA.
It’s always encouraging to see Longleaf Pine (Pinus palustris) in the landscape, and there is quite a lot of it in Baker County, like this stand on Williamsburg Road.
The savanna [grassy woodland] is the habitat most associated with Longleaf and is essential to the health of numerous keystone species, including the Northern Bobwhite (Colinus virginianus), Red-cockaded Woodpecker (Leuconotopicus borealis), Gopher Tortoise (Gopherus polyphemus), and Indigo Snake (Drymarchon couperi). Many of the plants and animals the environment supports are threatened or endangered.
Brickyard Branch is located on the edge of Ludowici, bordering both sides of US Highway 301. It’s part of the Altamaha River floodplain.
I first thought it was named for the brick and tile yard of the Ludowici Celadon Company which gave the town its name, early in the 20th century, but after discussion with a longtime resident believe there was a brickyard near the creek which was operational before the Celadon Company. It may have been what attracted them to the area.
Branch is another term for swamp [or creek]. A typical Southeast Georgia landscape, reminiscent of the Okefenokee Swamp, it’s characterized by brackish streams, ponds, and prairies.
Though not a publicly accessible area, it can be viewed from the highway right of way in several locations.
No other river in Georgia that I know has floodplains as extensive as the Altamaha, which reach over ten miles from Jesup to Ludowici.
It’s very important for wildlife and native plants, many of which are found in greater numbers here than almost anywhere else.
Most of the area is protected, be it by wildlife management areas or private ownership.
This massive Folk Victorian house sits at the end of a row of majestic cedars, which appear to be well over a century old.
Cedar lanes were once a popular landscaping choice but most of the old ones are long gone, lost to disease or storms over the years. These have somehow miraculously survived.
The house appears to date to the late 19th century.
An historic commissary stands at the front of the property, confirming that this was once a very busy plantation. It is still part of a large working farm. I walked up the lane to try to find someone to tell me about the place, to no avail. I imagine they were out in the fields busy with the cotton harvest.
This is one of the most pristine historic plantation properties I’ve ever seen and the owners have done a wonderful service in their efforts to preserve it. Thanks to Dale Reddick, and other members of the Screven County history group on Facebook, for the identification.
The grove of Live Oaks (Quercus virginiana) marking the entrance to Hofwyl House and its dependencies at Hofwyl-Broadfield Plantation is one of the great natural public spaces on the Georgia coast.
While the structures are a significant resource, the real attraction for many are the oaks located all over the property. Individually, the trees are objects of awe and wonder; collectively, they’re a natural cathedral.
As is common with many Live Oaks on the coast, some specimens appear to have been uprooted.
These giants are miraculous in their curious ability to grow this way, often living and prospering for centuries.
Spanish Moss is the natural ornament most associated with the Live Oak, and it’s especially abundant here.
There’s also lots of Resurrection Fern (Pleopeltis polypodioides).
Some of these trees are estimated to be between 500-800 years old.
Two are members of the Louisiana Live Oak Society Tree Registry, which documents significant specimens throughout the Southeast.
National Register of Historic Places